Sample Sale!

*Wow! That was fast, they sold in 2 hours with the "buy it now" option.
So sorry to anyone that missed out!

I finally took the plunge and decided that we can live without my Darla Ducky samples. *gasp* This was a hard decision to make because I love them so. But I also kind of cringe every time I see them since I remember all too well how it felt to be kicked out of the Conservatory where we took photos, all because I couldn't get a certain someone to stop picking the flower petals. *bows head in shame* But alas, I am also comforted by the fact that I know how to make these again. Ya think? So really it should have been an easy decision.

Oh and since my Tuesday didn't come with enough troubles of their own (Emily is sick again, not keeping food down), I thought I'd make this really confusing. The aprons you see modeled below actually belong to the opposite outfits. Genius, I know! The umbrella ducky goes with the dress and the cake ducky with the blouse. Back when I offered these last Easter, I gave the winning bidders a choice for the design of their aprons. Anyway, I think I've made it clear in the auctions about what goes with what. But why, oh why, did I have to go make things so complicated? I may just be losing my mind after-all.

*These are both 5 day auctions, ending this Sunday afternoon.
I will also ship via Priority mail to ensure delivery by Easter.

Jeans, blouse and apron set found {here}.

This blouse actually still fits Emily. The jeans however don't, they are a size 3T.

Jumper and apron set found {here}.

Ruffle Peasent Dress {Tutorial}

Let's make this!

As always with handmade frocks, you can customize the length. I decided that well below the knee would suit our purposes best. These should last us through this summer and the next without getting too short as they grow.



Coordinating, not matching, has always been my motto.

You'll need:

1. The ability to read a regular pattern.
2. Simplicity #5695/1449 (view D) or something similar. The key is to start with a peasant dress pattern that uses one full panel for the front and for the back. You don't want the bodice to be a separate piece.
3. Four coordinating fabrics. Follow the pattern for the amount needed for the body of the dress and the sleeves. Then add a 7" x 44" strip of fabric for the bottom, for sizes 4 and under. For larger sizes you will need 14" x 44" (read Step 7 before purchasing fabric, or just buy half a yard to be safe). You'll also need a 2.5" x 44" strip for the ruffle (make that 3" if you don't have access to a serger with a rolled hem stitch).
4. Elastic for neck and sleeve. I used 1/4" wide, braided, non-roll elastic.
5. Grosgrain ribbon, 3/8" for along the ruffle (this covers up the stitching the ruffle is attached with) and bow. Or ric rac would be fun too.
6. Coordinating or contrasting thread for sewing and top-stitching.
7. Cutting mat, rotary cutter and ruler. We'll be modifying this pattern a titch.

Step 1 {Measurements and sizes}

You'll need to measure around her chest and then the desired length for the dress, top of shoulder to hem. Her chest measurement will determine the size of dress to cut out. My girls both measure 22" around so I cut out a size 4 from this pattern. Size 3 says it fits chest size 22" but I want this to fit for 2 summers so I went up one size.

Step 2 {Pattern Pieces}

I start by cutting out my pattern pieces. I'm not talking about on the lines for a particular size yet. I just mean a rough cut away from the large piece of tissue paper, so they are easier to work with. Then I lay down my Swedish Tracing Paper (you can use plain white tissue paper) over the tissue pattern and trace out the correct size from the pieces I need. I make sure to label it with the pattern name, number, size, etc... so I can reuse it later. Be sure to transfer all markings like grainline and foldline too. You never know when you might want to make another one.

We are using view "D" from this pattern so you'll need to find the following pieces that say they are for view "D", in the size you need. One sleeve piece, the front piece and the back piece. We are making our own bottom band so we won't be using their ruffle piece. That's it!

You are going to alter the shape of this pattern just a bit (see next photo). The pattern itself is slightly indented at the waist. But I wanted more of a straight and full dress. This will also help it to fit my girls for 2 years. In this photo the slightly curved line (on the right) is the original pattern line. I drew with my straightedge, a straight line that stands further away from the body (left line). This just takes away that little bit of shaping that was in the pattern. It doesn't look like much of a change, but multiply that by 4 (for both sides of the front and back pieces) and you'll end up with a more full dress shape.

*though you can't see it in this photo, the new straight line extends all the way to the bottom and the bottom line extends out to meet my new line. So the bottom is slightly wider than the pattern was originally drawn.

When you draw out your front and back pieces you'll want to draw them to the correct length (or a bit longer since you can cut it shorter later). First measure from the top to the bottom of the back pattern piece. Compare this to the length you desire for the dress. This piece sits about 1.5" down from the top of her shoulder. Remember that we will also be adding a 3" band to the bottom, so subtract 3" from the desired length. Here is the formula I used. Or you could just cut the dress a bunch longer than needed and shorten it later after you try it on her (that's actually what I did for the first one, and then adjusted my pattern so they other 4 dresses matched).

Here is what I mean.

Finished length of our dress = 25.5" (of course your measurement may be different here)
Minus the 3" band = 22.5"
Minus 1.5" for the distance between the top of the back pattern piece and the shoulder = 21"
Add 1.25" to the pattern piece for seam allowance = 22.25"

So for my size, I drew the length of the back pattern piece to 22.25" (of course your measurement will be specific to the length you desire). I initially drew my pattern piece to the length they provide. Then I shorten or lengthen it to my needs by measuring the same distance all along the bottom edge and making dots that I can then connect for the new cut line. Be sure to make little "x's" along the old cut line so you don't accidentally use that line for cutting.

Then lay the front pattern piece on top of the back piece, line up the underarm point and the fold line and then draw the front piece's length to match the length of the back piece.

I hope I didn't just lose you here. I'm missing photos of this step and I know they would have been helpful. Sorry!

Step 3 {Cutting the fabric}

Go ahead and pin your sleeve pattern piece to your fabric, paying attention that the arrow for grainline matches up with the vertical grain of your fabric. You can fold your fabric in half and cut both sleeves out at once, or just cut one, flip the pattern over and cut the second. I do it this way so I can more meticulously line up the fabric print with how I want it centered on the sleeve. It's also helpful when I'm trying to eek out one more sleeve from just scraps of fabric.

Next cut out the front and back pieces.

Then, using your rotary cutter and mat, cut out a 2.5" strip of fabric for the ruffle. I use the full width of the fabric for this. Since it will be gathered, it doesn't really matter the length as long as it's anywhere from 1.5-2x the length of the center of your front pattern piece. A little more or less is no big deal. Seriously...it's not.

Also cut a 7" long piece. Don't cut it to the needed width just yet. We will measure the width of the dress later when it's assembled.

Step 4 {Assemble the dress and sleeves}

Using a 5/8" seam allowance

Sew together the side seams of your front and back pieces. Then serge the seam allowance or use a zig-zag stitch to finish them off.

Sew together the sleeves (underarm seams) and serge or zig zag the seam allowance.

Now, turn the dress inside out and turn the sleeves right side out. Line up the sleeves inside the dress on the appropriate side. Match up the side seams and start pinning, working your way out to the edges.

You'll know you've got them lined up correctly if it looks like this. The sleeves are sandwiched between the dress pieces.

Now sew the sleeves to the dress and serge or zig zag the seam allowance.

Step 5 {Add the Ruffle}

Ok, so this part will be hard to do if you don't have a serger that can perform a rolled edge. Or if like me, you have a serger, but it no longer does a rolled edge, and you don't have a wonderful friend like Amy that let's you use her serger. See if you can find someone with a serger, or you can sew a narrow hem on both long edges. It's not ideal for this look, but it will still work. A narrow hem is were you turn the edge under 1/8" (iron it down) and then another 1/8" (iron it down) and stitch it. Your machine may also have a narrow hem foot which you could use too. *If you must go this route, you should cut your strip 3" wide to make up for the extra 1/2" used in the hemming.

Here is what it looks like with a narrow hem instead.

You should have already cut a 2.5" length of fabric in step 3^. Depending on the width of the fabric you are using, it should be about 44" long. Serge a rolled hem along both long edges. Then stitch a running stitch down the center. A running stitch is just a stitch at the longest length your machine will do, and you don't go back and forth at the starting and stopping points to anchor it.

Once you have the running stitch in place, pull on the top thread and start scootching (real technical, I know) the fabric down along the thread. When you get about halfway, tie a not at the top and then take the top thread at the opposite end and scootch the fabric down toward the middle. You'll want the ruffle to be the same length as the center of the front of your dress. Spread out the ruffle so it's even the whole length.

Next pin the ruffle to the middle of the neckline. I use my measuring tape to make sure I keep it in the center of the dress and then pin it about every 3" the whole way down the front. You don't need any of it to be gathered for the very top 5/8" as this will be folded under to form the casing, same goes for the bottom 1/2" since that will be sewn into the bottom seam.

Go ahead and sew the ruffle down along the center, just on top of the gathering stitch you made earlier. Be sure to change your stitch back to a normal size, since you just used it for the running stitch.

Now that your ruffle is attached, you'll want to sew down a length of 3/8" grosgrain ribbon to cover up those lines of stitching. I just cut the length I need and lay it down the middle and pull it taut as I stitch very close to both sides of the ribbon's edge. No need to pin, you should be able to hold it in place as your machine runs. Sorry I have no photos of this process, but here is the end result.

You won't be adding the bow until the very end. No need to worry about raw edges, as they will be turned under to make the casing for the elastic next.

Step 6 {Add neck and Arm Casing}

Per the pattern directions, you will fold both the arm and neck edges under 5/8" and iron it for a crisp fold. If the ruffle at the neckline overhangs the dress a bit, just trim it so it's straight. Now open it up and fold the edge under 1/4" this time, iron it being sure not to iron out the 5/8" line you just made. Don't reverse this step or you will end up with a casing that is too small to accommodate the elastic.

Now fold up the 1/4" edge you just ironed and fold it again on the 5/8" crease. I iron it all flat again at this point, with lots and lots of steam. You'll need to do some finessing to see that the ruffle doesn't stick up crazy-like.

Then stitch the hem down as close to the edge as possible. Leave about an inch at the center back of the dress and at the underarm seams of the sleeves. This is so you can insert the elastic into the casing you just made. Leave long enough thread tails so you can pull the outside thread through to the inside of the dress and tie them off.

There should be two thin rectangles on your pattern tissue. These are the elastic guides for the arms and neck. Go ahead and cut your elastic to those lengths. Attach a small safety pin to one end of the elastic and start pushing it in to the appropriate casing hole until it comes out the other end. You will just overlap the elastic pieces by about 1/2" and sew them together. I put them under my presser foot and lower the foot quickly to catch it before it can pull out. Then stitch back and forth several times. I usually shorten my stitch length for this too. Before sewing the neck elastic together, this is a good time to have her try on the dress and see if you prefer to cinch up the neckline a little bit.

Now stretch out the sleeve and neck elastics, distributing the fabric evenly all the way around. Pin the hole closed where you put the casing in and stitch it closed. I pull the thread tails from the outside of the garment, through to the inside and tie knots to secure them here too.

These three dresses were all cut from the same size 4 pattern. For the center dress, I cut the body of the dress shorter by 1", but it looks about 2" shorter overall because I also cinched up the neck elastic more than the other two. So I just wanted to point out that a tighter neckline makes for a bit shorter dress. If you start with it tighter, you can always remove the elastic and put in a larger piece so it's looser, giving her more opportunity to wear the dress.


Step 7 {Add the Bottom Band}

Now you need to measure the width of the bottom edge of the dress. Ours measured at 20.5" wide. So I cut my 7" strip of bottom fabric to 21.5" wide. This allows for a 1/2" seam allowance at each end. I did find that some of the fabrics I used weren't quite as wide but I was able to sew a 1/4" seam allowance to still be able to get a piece for the front and the back out of that one 7" strip. This is also nice since it means that the fabric pattern itself will be the same on the front and the back.

If your dress bottom edge measures a lot wider because maybe you are making a larger size or the dress is longer and thus wider at the bottom, you will need to have two 7" lengths cut. There will just be more fabric waist. But that's Ok, you'll have an adorable little dress when you are done.

Now that you have 2 pieces of fabric that are 7" tall by the length you need, you will fold and iron it in half so it's now 3.5" tall. Turn it inside out and line up the edges to sew your 1/2" (or 1/4") seam.

Oops, looks like I didn't line this up as well as I had though. When I iron it right-side out, the seam will be slightly under instead of exactly on the outside edge. That's Ok, I'll just make sure it's on the inside of the dress later.

Clip the corners so you get a nice point when you turn it right-side out.

Oh look! I do have a photo of the ruffle at the bottom of the dress. If that ruffle overhangs at all, just trim it even with the dress.

Now turn it right-side out and iron it flat.

You will then determine which side you want face up and pin that side face down onto the right-side of the dress. Be sure you are pinning the open edges (raw edges) on top of the raw edge of the dress. Start by lining up the edge of your bottom band, with the side seam of the dress. Pin both edges at the sides and then pin it in the middle by finding the middle of both pieces. This way, in case you mis-measured your band width by something small like 1/4" it can be evenly distributed along the edge of the dress. You won't even notice it since you can stretch the fabric a tiny bit as needed.

There's that funky edge I didn't sew quite right. It's on the inside of the dress and you'd never know it was there (if i hadn't said anything that is).

Go ahead and sew the band on using a 1/2" seam allowance. I like to use something long (and not my finger...ouch) to make sure the edges stay in place, butted up right next to each other, while sewing. This will ensure a nice tight piecing together of the band and the dress at the side seams.

Serge the seam, flip it down and iron the seam up towards the dress.

Voila! That was pretty easy, wasn't it?

Now you can top-stitch the band. I started and stopped my presser foot underneath the ruffle in the front so that the ruffle doesn't get sewn flat here.

Step 8 {Add the Bow and She's Ready to Go!}

Tie a little bow using 3/8" grosgrain ribbon. Be sure to heat-seal the ends by running a lighter quickly past the cut edges. I use the long handle lighters because they are the easiest to operate. A match works in a pinch too, but it's not quite as user-friendly. Hand-stitch the bow down, right on top of the stitching that forms the elastic casing at the neck. This helps camouflage that line.

You're done!
Now have her try it on and watch her light up knowing that you made a pretty dress just for her.
And give yourself a pat on the back,
you just made a one-of-a-kind Boutique style dress!

 

A Child's Apron {Tutorial}

So now that you know how to embroider by hand.

Want something fun to put it on?

Then let's get started with my Child's Apron Tutorial!

A homemade apron would be the perfect addition to make baking with your little helper that much sweeter. Seriously, the cuteness factor of these is just too high to miss out on. And they are really quite simple to make. Even if you don't want to tackle the embroidery part, just find some gorgeous fabrics and you're good to go.

Finished size of this apron is approximately 10"H x 12"W

You'll need:

1. Coordinating fabrics: 1/3 yard of white Egyptian cotton, or other fine white fabric for the top and lining. A coordinating fabric for the back that measures at least 12"H x 16"W (you can use a fat quarter for this). 1/6 yard of coordinating fabric for the sash (a strip of fabric 6"x the standard width of the fabric, about 44"). If you are having this cut at a fabric store, you better ask for 8" because sometimes they can be really off from the grain. but if you are cutting from your stash, you'll need to cut two 3" wide strips of fabric. It would be fun to choose a different print for each piece.
2. Ric rac or bias tape (self-made or store-bought) for trim.
3. Coordinating thread
4. Wrapping paper to make a pattern. Of course any paper will do, but who doesn't have wrapping paper on hand?

Step 1 {Make a Pattern}

Here is my apron pattern. Lovely isn't it? It's been used a million and one times and has the pin holes to prove it. You could also use Swedish Tracing Paper, which I have since switched to. I love this stuff for tracing all of my pattern pieces on to. They are so much more durable and it sticks nicely to the fabric for less slippage.

I started by cutting a rectangle that was 13"W x 10"H. Then I used the lid of a gallon ice cream bucket (which aren't really gallons anymore, so sad) to draw the curved corner. I then folded it in half and cut the curves out so it would be symmetrical. That's it!

Step 2 {Cut your fabric}

You can either pin your pattern piece and cut out 2 pieces from your white fabric (one for the top to embroider on, and one for the lining to give the apron more weight and so that your backing fabric won't show through to the front) and one out of your fabric for the reverse side. Cut 3 total.

Or...you could just raid your pantry. Don't laugh, I know this looks strange, but it works.

My sewing buddy, Amy, showed me last week how to cut pattern pieces out using a rotary cutter. And here I thought rotary cutters were just for straight lines. Nope! Just use something to weigh down the corners. Keep cans/jars on the shorter side or you'll have trouble reaching around them. You can also buy pattern weights that are just large heavy washers wrapped in fabric (or make your own). Make sure you do this on your cutting mat. I thought it would be difficult to maneuver, but it was actually quite easy. You should try it sometime. Just don't forget when it comes dinner time, that what you're looking for might be in your sewing room instead of the pantry. Right Amy? ;) Hehehe.

Next cut two, 3" long strips (by the entire width of the fabric) of your sash fabric. Fabric is usually 44" wide and this is plenty long enough for a child's waist.

*If you would like to make this for an adult, just scale your pattern piece up. Make it a couple of inches wider than your body width (for gathering) and as long as you like. You can add length to the sash by following Jona's tutorial on how to make a fat quarter apron. I'm using her technique for attaching the sash anyway (my old way was much harder), so you might want to read her whole tute too.

Step 3 {Embellish}

Or not. You can hand embroider a design, applique a monogram, bring the top piece to a store that does machine embroidery to add a name or monogram, or add a pocket to the front of the apron. How about embroidery on the front and a pocket on the back? Or make some yo-yo's, stitch them on and then free-hand embroider the stem and leaves. The sky's the limit. Here are some photos for inspiration. These are all from my past creations.

Bias trim instead of ric rac.

My first apron, it wasn't gathered at all. I prefer it gathered a bit now so it doesn't make the dress lay so flat.

Step 4 {Assemble the apron}

Once you have added all that you want, to the front and back pieces, you are ready to assemble the apron. Start by laying your back piece right side up. If you'd like to sandwich ric rac between the layers start by pinning it along the edges of the fabric (or use my "no pin" method for adding ric rac, found here). Since jumbo ric rac is 3/8" to the center you will use a 3/8" seam allowance for sewing this portion together. This allows you to pin the ric rac right up to the edge of the fabric, no measuring needed. Love that! Of course you can use different sizes of ric rac, but then you'll need to measure so the center will end up on your seam line.

Actually, before you start pinning...you will need to measure to see that it starts 1/2" down from the top so that one of the scallops aren't sewn in half when adding the sash later. I say 1/2" because we'll use a 1/2" seam allowance when we attach the sash. Ric rac is somewhat easy to fudge with. When you get to the other side and it doesn't line up to be 1/2" down from the top just remove some pins (to about the halfway point) and stretch or scrunch it up a bit until you get the correct length. But it's not the end of the world if you have to cut it just short of the top edge and not include the scallop that would have been sewn in half. If you need to do this, then be sure to heat seal the ends so it doesn't come unraveled.

Heat sealing ric rac: Pass a lighter (I use the long handled kind) quickly along the freshly cut ends to melt them together. A little practice and you will become a pro at it.

Now sew it using a 1/4" seam allowance. This is just to keep it in place so you don't have to sew over extra pins when sewing all three layers together. You don't want to sew with the 3/8" allowance here or you might end up with stitches outside of the final seam and that can be unsightly and a pain to remove later.

Now you are ready to make your sandwich of apron pieces.

1. First, lay down the plain white piece you are using as the lining. It's ok to not line your apron if you don't mind the print from either side showing through. Perhaps you've just chosen two bold prints, then you probably don't need a lining. It's up to you, this is just how I like to do it.
2. Next, place the front of your apron, face up, on top of the lining piece.
3. Finally, lay the back piece, wrong side up, on top of your front piece.

Line up the edges and pin all three pieces together. You may find that the top piece (the one you sewed the ric rac to) is slightly smaller due to the sewing we just did to it. Just trim the other layers a bit so you can accurately use this layer as your guide for a 3/8" seam.

You'll also want to check one last time to make sure you've layered them correctly. It's not fun to find out later that your front piece ended up as the lining piece. Yeah, I would know.

You'll notice that when I opened it up that you can see that the lining piece (which is on the bottom) will be directly adjacent to the front piece. This is so that the red ric rac has another layer of white on top of it so it won't be visible through the top layer.

*Of course you could finish you edges differently, like with store-bought or self-made bias tape. I did that in my Sweet Tweet finished apron above^. In that case you would layer your three pieces the way they will lay as a finished product and just wrap your bias tape around the edges. Be sure to put the side that is slightly wider, on the backside. That makes sure it gets caught up in the line you sew from the front side.

Now sew all three layers together using a 3/8" seam allowance and turn it rightside out.

Check to make sure that the ric rac looks good, not spots where it's not sticking out far enough or sticks out too far. You can adjust those now with your seam ripper and extra pinning in that one spot. Just undo as little as possible to be able to reposition the ric rac. It's a pain, but now's the time to do it.

Next you'll iron it so it lays flat. I gently pull on the ric rac to help it pop out and so I don't iron a crease into the edge.

Then you are ready to top-stitch it. Sew a line anywhere from 1/8" to 1/4" from the edge. Just make it even all the way around.

Step 5 {Add the Sash}

You should already have two 3" wide, long strips of fabric cut. You are now ready to attach them to the apron for a sash. This sash will just be long enough to tie in a loose knot behind her. It probably won't be long enough to tie in a bow, but if that's what you prefer you can add length by following Jona's Apron in an Hour tutorial for the sash. I use the same concept here, but with one length of fabric. With hers you can customize it to the length you need.

I start by finding the middle point of both the sash and the apron and use pins to mark those spots.

Laying the pieces right sides together and the sash so the print is upside down, I pin the apron to the bottom edge of the sash, lining up the center point pins. Ok, I'm sure that's confusing. Keep reading, I think it will make sense soon. I hope...

I only want a slight gather for the apron so that all of the embroidery will show. If you gather it too much, then you lose the ability to see all of the design. I slide the outside edges toward the center by one inch and pin it.

Then I find each center point from there on and pin it.

Flip the apron up so you have an idea of what it will look like when sewn together. Looks good to me!

Now go stitch down the gathered apron to the sash with a 1/2" seam allowance. Lay it back down so both the apron and the sash are facing up (like this next photo).

You can now lay your second sash piece on top of the first sash piece. Be sure it's faces right side down and that the print is upside down. In this next photo, the apron is already attached to the bottom edge of the sash piece that is underneath the top piece.

Now you can start stitching around the sash with a 1/2" seam allowance. You will start where the apron sticks out and go all the way around until you get to where it sticks out on the other side.

Start here.

When you get to the corners, measure 2.5" out and sew on an imaginary diagonal line. Or you could just sew them straight.

Clip your corner and trim the excess to make turning the corners easier.

Turn the sash ends right side out and iron them flat.

The front of the apron already looks like this.

But the back, needs to be stitched up. You need to fold under and iron, a 1/2" seam allowance along the opening.

Pin it lightly so the edge doesn't flip under when you sew. You'll want to remove the pins as you get to them though.

Now, go ahead and top-stitch a line all the way around the apron, about 1/8" to 1/4" from the edge. Just make sure it's even all the way around.

And you are done!

Now go bake a cake!